Spent a delightful evening with Evelyne and Roland Lemoine at the B&B in Cajarc. We had arranged to have dinner with them rather than heading out to a restaurant. I did have a minor concern that we might be served something a little too authentic. Remember, this is goose and duck country.
We had lunch with a wifi connection. I visited a wine shop and learned that the Cahors “black wine” is actually Malbec. They are starting to blend it more and more to widen the market. I was able to escape without buying anything. It is either on my back or air freight. Decided to pass on both.
The rain arrived an hour after we did. Our pleasant little room was separated from the main living quarters by a glassed in breeze way that Evelyne uses as her painting studio. Roland has a wood shop outside like Peggy would have me and my shop. They couldn’t do enough for us. Gave us a Belgian beer to relax. Roland is from Belgium, Bastogne in fact.
Dinner was served around 7:30. The two grandchildren were there. One five and the other eleven and learning English. Evelyne spoke English well, Roland not a word. Great salad with avocados, cucumbers and white asparagus. The main dish was pork loin and rice that was seasoned in a way only the French can do. Of course, we had the local wine, a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Malbec. It was excellent. Roland kept opening bottles until I begged for mercy. Can you imagine? The cheese course (Camembert, a mild goat cheese and Cantal) was followed by a chocolate mousse.
Breakfast could not begin until Roland was back from the boulangerie with fresh, hot bread. We were not out the door until well after eight. Also stopped at the boulangerie for a sandwich for lunch since we were traveling through a lightly populated region. Left the nice town with rain pants and rain coats on. The weather forecast was not good. After an hour of sweating the rain clothes came off and did not return until we were more than half way here. Our parkas worked perfectly in the light rain.
A new feature appeared today. Village lavaries where the village women could do their laundry. Cool granite scrub boards and lots of water. Not sure if the purpose was to get all the women in one place or what. The country that we traveled through was quite empty. The land was mostly limestone with a little soil. The trees were stunted and the cows were few. Saw very few farms although there were these hamlets named with Mas de —- which I believe was a family name. Maybe a family compound.
A five hundred foot climb and 18 km were done before 2 PM and we needed to preoccupy ourselves for a couple of hours until the B&B opened. Relaxed with a beer and we worked through our hiking schedule. We are doing fine. We are right at 300 km and a little ahead of schedule.
Visited the local museum with some hands on exhibits. No white gloves needed. Checked into our rooms and waiting to head out to pizza. The shower was great but the room was like a meat locker. I went down and shivered for the host. She said everything was automatic. I held my comments which were many. Shortly after returning to the room, the heater turned on. Not like at Evelyne’s place. It is fine. Private shower, toilette and three single beds. What more could you want? Actually the bottle of Cahors wine that is helping me write is doing just fine.